floating
I went surfing again earlier this week. It was amazing. *dreamy sigh* I managed to stand up pretty regularly, so I'm over the hurdle of "what if I never get the hang of this". I have the hang of it, from here it's all practice and getting in the water every chance I get. Oh, and learning how to spot & catch the wave itself. :-)
Our instructor, Taylor, would point one out and tell us to start paddling and at the last minute, would give an extra shove for some speed. I tried a couple of times on my own to catch one, but now I know why they call it "catching" a wave! It's kinda confusing because you sit in the line up (the calmer spot of water out past the breaking waves) and wait until you see the right kind of wave approaching. The next bits are still a bit hazy for me. As far as I understand, you turn around, lie down and paddle like the bejeezus until you feel the wave start to lift the back of your board. Then it's a mix of timing, skill, grace and luck as you pop up to a crouch and ride it out. SO far, I can catch it with a push and can stand for at least a few seconds. I still need to figure out how to catch it on my own, and how to turn. Yeah. Turning is kinda important. Already clearing my schedule to get in some time next week!! *jumps up and down in excitement* Better than Disneyland, cheaper than therapy. ;-P
